Matching the fixture to the tree is what separates effective tree lighting from a misplaced spotlight that either underpowers a large canopy or overwhelms a small ornamental. Here's how to think about fixture selection.
● Tree height determines throw. For trees up to 3 m (10 ft), such as ornamental maples, Japanese maples, dwarf conifers, and most shrub form plants, the MINI SCOPE provides exactly the right output. For trees between 3 and 8 m (10 to 26 ft), the SCOPE or BIG SCOPE covers the canopy without overpowering it. For mature trees above 8 m (26 ft), such as spruce, pine, large sugar maples, oaks, and elms, the BIG SCOPE NARROW delivers the beam throw needed to reach the upper canopy effectively.
● Canopy density determines beam width. Dense evergreen canopies, such as spruce, cedar, and pine, need a concentrated beam that penetrates the outer foliage rather than reflecting off it. Use narrow beam fixtures like BIG SCOPE NARROW or BIG NERO NARROW. Open deciduous canopies, such as birch, trembling aspen, and honeylocust, benefit from wider beam angles that wash the entire tree structure.
● Bark texture rewards close placement. Trees with distinctive bark, such as white birch, red maple, silver maple, and Scotch pine, are often most effectively lit by placing a fixture close to the base of the trunk and angling it to graze across the surface. This technique, called grazing, highlights texture in a way that a fixture placed further away cannot achieve.
● Multiple fixtures for large specimens. Trees with significant canopy spread often need two or three fixtures positioned at different angles to avoid one sided illumination. A single spotlight on a 15 m (50 ft) sugar maple will light one quarter of it well and leave three quarters in shadow. Plan for 2 to 3 SCOPE or BIG SCOPE units around large specimens.
